Basic Embroidery Concepts and Definitions


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Basic Embroidery Concepts and Definitions


Applique	Fabric or Material used to provide an alternative effect to embroidery stitches.

Backing	Woven and non-woven material that is normally placed behind a fabric prior to embroidery for the purpose of support, stability and shrinkage reduction.
	Backings come in different weights for different applications, usually in two types known as "cut-away" and "tear-away" backings.

Bean stitch	Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining because it eliminates the need for repeatedly digitizing a single-ply running stitch outline.
	Double - applies a ”bean” function to the running stitch, where the needle will double back on itself after each stitch, so that 3 layers of stitching are created in the same area. This creates a thicker running stitch.
	Triple - applies a "bean+1" to the running stitch, where the needle will double back on itself twice after each stitch, so that 4 layers of stitching are created in the same area. This creates an even thicker running stitch.

Branching	Also referred to as Autopathing. This specialized feature allows for several connecting sections of the same stitch type (i.e. running, satin or fill) to be digitized in no particular order and without having to reorganize the sewing sequence between the sections. The software will automatically find the proper sewing sequence of the sections, and make the closest connection between sections based upon the placement of the sections, and by setting entry/exit points for each section during the stitch generation.

Color change	A machine command programmed into a design where the machine will stop stitching, trim, and then engage a new color needle.

Compensation	Also referred to as push and pull compensation.
	It is the digitizing technique that compensates for the distortion of the design that occurs due to the interaction of the thread with the fabric. By applying a percentage or fixed thread width value to a stitch type (i.e. satin or fill), it offsets the pushing or pulling effect that stitches have on a fabric.

Density	The density parameter (which is a numeric field) specifies the distance between the lines of stitches in the fill section. The number in this field shows the distance between one line of stitches and the next line.

Digitizing	Also referred to as Punching. It is a computerized process used to transfer a graphic artwork into embroidery stitch commands and machine function codes, which are used by an embroidery machine for the sewing.

Fix & Lock	A series of small stitches added to the beginning and end of a block, so the thread stays secure. Fix refers to the stitches at the beginning and lock refers to the stitches at the end. This stitch is usually formed by 3-5 consecutive stitches in a straight line, triangle or cross pattern, with a stitch length of approx. 1mm.

Jump stitch	The machine needle movement from one point in a design to another without needle penetration of the fabric. The thread can be trimmed or left uncut during the movement.

Manual Stitch	A stitch type in which a stitch, or needle penetration, is generated at
	the position every manual point input. If the max stitch length is set, software will insert stitches if the distance of two manual inputs is longer than the setting. Manual stitches are often used to outline tiny details, where the digitizer wants the stitches go to specific positions.

Object	An object is group of stitch sections divided by special functions (i.e. stop codes, jump stitches, trim, color changes, etc.)
	Stitch Objects are the parts of a stitch design (stitch file) that contain only information on individual stitches (i.e. x, y distances from the start point) used by an embroidery machine to perform needle penetrations. That means that for these objects, the only known information is the movements of the machine pentagram.
	Outline objects are the parts of an outline design (outline file) that contain outline information and stitch parameters settings (i.e. geometry/vector shapes, stitch density, stitch length, underlay, line direction, etc.) that are used by embroidery software to generate stitches.

Outline Design	Also referred to as outline file or condensed file.
	It is a group of outline objects containing outline information and stitch parameters settings (i.e. geometry/vector shapes, stitch density, stitch length, underlay, line direction, etc.) that are used by embroidery software to generate stitches. Every software has its own unique outline design extension that is usually not compatible with other software.
	The advantage of outline design format is the stitch quality consistency during the manipulation of its objects. The reason behind this is when an outline object is scaled or reshaped, the software will actually regenerate new stitches, based on the new outline and the original stitch parameter settings. Therefore it is always more preferable to back up outline designs than stitch files.

Pattern	The series of repeated fill stitch offsets that create a stitch effect in a fill stitch section.

Piping Stitch	A satin type stitch which flows along the outline, rather that between point and counterpoint.

Registration	Representation of the correct stitch position of a section relative to the other stitch sections. A properly digitized logo should have proper compensation in place for a specified fabric, so that sewn out elements will line up correctly on the fabric.

Running Stitch	Also referred to as walk stitch. A stitch type where an outline ( a line or arc) is formed by input points. The software will then generate the stitches along the outline at an even distance, based on the pre-set stitch length. The stitches may not necessarily be created at the input points.
	Running stitches appear as though produced by a sewing machine.
	Commonly used to define fine details, thin outlines, underlay and to connect the sections of other stitch types, which will then be covered later by another section.

Satin Serial	A special satin stitch type produces an even satin width for an entire section.
	The software needs only a single outline to generate the stitches.
	This type of stitch is ideal for bordering, where the width of the column can be easily adjusted by its parameter setting.

Satin Stitch	A stitch type where the outline nodes are input by point/counter point method, the software will generate stitches along both sides of the outline with the thread line following each pair of the stitch and counter stitch. The thread lines are parallel to each other.

	This stitch type is commonly used for lettering, bordering and regular or irregular narrow columns where the column width is usually less than 7mm.

Section	A section is a part of an object that has only one type of parameter setting.
	It is the minimum editable component of a stitch or outline object. For example, a fill stitch section in an outline object is the section of stitches having a specified line direction, color, stitch density, stitch length, entry point and exit end point, etc.

Step Stitch	Also referred to as Fill Stitch or Complex Fill. It is a series of running stitches lined up closely, and parallel, with a defined gap known as density. Commonly used to cover large areas. Two points of direction, entered before generating a step stitch section, determines the angle of all running stitch lines, excluding underlay. This type of stitche is often used to cover large areas.

Stitch	One needle penetration.

Stitch Design	Also referred to as stitch file or expended file. It is group of stitch objects containing individual stitch information and special functions (i.e. stop codes, jump stitches, trim, color changes, etc.) read by an embroidery machine to perform needle penetrations. Popular stitch design formats are with .dst or .exp extensions. A stitch design usually should not be enlarged or reduced more than 10-20% without distortion because the stitch count remains constant.

Stitch length	Distance between needle penetrations in a stitch type.

Style	The series of repeated manual stitch sections that create a stitch effect in a running or fill stitch section.

Trim	Also referred to as thread cut.

	A machine command programmed into a design that tells the embroidery machine to automatically cut the thread at the end of a current stitch section.

Underlay	Primary stitches tacked down before top stitch sections. these provide stability for top stitches on stretchy fabrics, dimensions to design, and for locking backing material on fabrics.

ZigZag Stitch	A stitch type where the outline nodes are input by a point/counter-point method. The software will generate stitches along both sides of the outline, with the thread line following each pair of the stitch and counter-stitch. The thread lines are sewn at an angle instead of parallel.

	This stitch type is commonly used for narrow columns, Applique bordering, and underlay stitches.

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